Choosing the Eco-Friendly Tour: Volcano Boarding with Sonati

Volcano Boarding with Sonati

When you think of Central America you can’t help but think of luscious green landscapes set to the backdrop of towering volcanoes. Old, new, inactive and active, volcanoes are all over Central America! So if you fancy yourself an adventurer the opportunity to challenge yourself presents itself nicely in some of the volcano hikes and tours around the countryside.

However, if this doesn’t sound exciting enough for you perhaps you’d be more interested in hiking up Cerro Negro, considered Central America’s most active volcano, and then boarding down the steep slope of volcanic gravel on a rickety old plank of wood?

Volcano boarding, just outside the city of Leon, is quickly becoming one of the must-do tourist attractions in Nicaragua. Pretty much unmissable along the famous Gringo trail throughout Central America, volcano boarding has something for everyone. A beautiful scenery, a nice short hike and some crazy adventure!  The only difficulty, who to do the tour with?

Bigfoot vs The Rest

When you make it to Leon there’s no shortage of hostels and tour agencies offering volcano boarding or hikes. After spending a little time investigating our options we came to the conclusion that it was basically Bigfoot Hostel, and then all the others.

A lot of people that head up Cerro Negro go through the popular hostel Bigfoot, but that’s mostly because a lot of travelers end up staying there. Personally, it wasn’t for us. We didn’t stay there, so we’re not about to bad mouth it, but to us (and from what we heard) it just seemed like any other mass-Gringo populated hostel tour agency that you find along your travels. Instead we opted for a smaller organization called Sonati Tours, a local ran tour agency that put 100% of their profits into locally run environmental education projects.

Between the two organisations there wasn’t a great deal of difference in price, but funnily enough it was Bigfoot that actually charged more, even though their profits went back into their pockets, as opposed to Sonati who gave back to the community.

Both tour agencies ran similar deals, the tour price included transport and equipment. Bigfoot charged you $30 dollars a tour, and so did Sonati. However Bigfoot fails to mention the $5 entrance fee you have to pay at the parks gate, so the tour actually bumps up to $35. Within that extra $5 they offer you the obligatory Gringo singlet that ‘proves’ you completed volcano boarding at their hostel (but really you’re just a free walking advertisement for them). They also throw in a 50c beer and a watered down cocktail to sweeten the deal, but nothing that extra $5 is really paying for.

Going with Sonati costs $30 flat, and as well as getting a cheaper deal you’ll also be lucky to get a few extras. You’ll get a smaller group, which usually means your guide will let you board down the volcano a second time (we did!). You’ll also get more time to chat with your guide about your surroundings and hear interesting stories about the history of the volcano. And if that’s not enough, give your Karma a little boost by knowing your giving back to a better cause than just another hostel.

At the end of the day the decision is yours. We’re not trying to be your moral conscience, but it was an easy choice for us. While Sonati may not have the big touristy appeal that some people enjoy, we had a really good time with our smaller group and learned a lot more about the great work Sonati are doing around the community.

Welcome To Paradise: Backpacking Corn Islands

*Please watch fullscreen in 720 HD for best quality! (To change, click on the little gear icon on the bottom right of the video)*

 

Yay! Got another video for y’all! This one is from our time backpacking Corn Islands, Nicaragua. We cannot stress how absolutely idyllic these islands were, especially Little Corn. And not in that, “OMG I’m a travel blogger so I have to say that every place is amaaaazing,” way. Seriously guys. You all need to stop what you’re doing and buy a plane ticket to Nicaragua now. We ended up staying for two weeks on Little Corn alone. We spent our days laying on stunning beaches, knocking ripe coconuts from the trees and stuffing ourselves with freshly baked coconut bread. One night we came across a giant sea turtle laying eggs during our beach bonfire… On second thought.. never mind. We want to keep paradise to ourselves!


If you’re unable to watch the video for whatever reason, please let us know!

Hiking Ometepe Island: Volcanoes, Mineral Baths and Clean Living

Hiking volcanoes, medicinal baths and plenty of clean living are the undeniable highlights of Ometepe Island. Whether it’s pushing your body to the limit, giving it a rest or simply enjoying the scenic nature of the island, Ometepe has it all.

Sitting in the middle of Lago Nicaragua, the stunning island of Ometepe was created from the formation of two giant lake volcanoes, Vulcan Concepción and Vulcan Maderas, standing 1600m and 1400m respectively. These colossal volcanoes make Ometepe the tallest lake volcano site in the world and a phenomenal site in itself.

 

 

For the keen hikers this allows for an adrenaline filled and muscle aching adventure. Those looking for a serious challenge take on the monstrous Concepción. Not only is it higher in attitude, but the hike is a steep climb, with little protection from the harsh sun that shines bright during the day.

If you’re looking for a lesser challenge, but still want to enjoy a tough hike, then Maderas is the one for you. Starting at Finca Magdalena, it’s a 6km track through lush jungle overgrowth and slippery rocks. On route you can hear the boisterous calls of Howler monkeys, and keep an eye out for the odd snake or mountain crab.

While it may not boast the high altitude view of Concepción, (in fact there is no view at all from the top) instead you’ll be greeted with a spectacular lake in the crater filled with all kinds of rich healing minerals. It’s a refreshing end to a tough hike and provides a nice break before you need to tackle the downhill. If it’s been raining then the treacherously slippery rocks and masses of mud definitely keep you on your toes, or if you’re unlucky, or your butt!

 

 

Although it doesn’t have a huge view, there is a lookout you can stop by on the way down to take in the island and surrounding lake. It’s also a nice spot to stop for a break on the way up or down, or both.

 

To Guide or Not to Guide?

Simple answer. No. Hostels and travel shops will offer guided hiking ranging anywhere between $10-20, just for some dude to walk you up a volcano. While some tours are worth the extra splash out, this one can be easily done for free. And while we wouldn’t advise hiking alone, this is a pretty straight forward trail and would be hard to get lost.


{ The cloudy crater lake of Maderas }

 

Medicinal Remedies

If you’re not in the best shape, or push yourself particularly hard, chances are you’re going to be a little stiff the next morning. What better way to relax those tired old muscles than a relaxing swim in the healing mineral waters of Ojo de Agua. The water streams down from natural water reserves and passes through the mineral rich earth. After a brief chat with the security man on the front gate he swore to us that the water will make you feel ten years younger. And whether you believe in the hype or not, at $2 an entry it’s a great way to spend a lazy afternoon if the sun is out.

 

General Hiking Tips

       1. Don’t hike alone. If anything were to happen, at least one of you can go call for help. Plus it’s always more enjoyable to have company.

       2. Leave as early as possible. You don’t want to be navigating through a maze of growth in the dark.

       3. Always bring a flashlight. You never know what could delay you. A headlamp or flashlight is extremely valuable if you get caught out at night.

      4. Bring enough water and snacks. Worst case scenario you get a little lost or it takes you longer than expected. Bananas, nuts, grains and raisins are good trail mix food to give you slow release energy. You don’t want high sugar food that’ll burn through you.

Free Coconuts in the Caribbean: How to Live Off The Land

A short instructional video on the very precise technique of collecting free coconuts in the Caribbean.

Actually there isn’t much science or skill to it at all, mostly just patience and perseverance. I mean, what else is there to do when you’re living on a small Caribbean island for a few weeks with no Internet and barely any electricity?

Coconut collecting became a fun hobby whenever we went to the beach. Miles of untouched Caribbean coast, all lined with overhanging coconut trees fresh for the plucking. I think, by the end of the trip, I’d become quite the expert, collecting dozens of coconuts and using their water and flesh for all kinds of recipes and cocktails.

First there was the fresh coconut bread that we’d bake daily using the drained water and some shaved coconut flesh. For dinner we’d get stuck into some coconut sticky rice, served up with fresh snapper from the day’s catch. Then to wash it all down, a deliciously fresh rum, pineapple and coconut cocktail.

And what’s better than free? All you have to do is find a nice quiet spot on the beach and begin the process. Assess the area, looking out for any useful tools like large rocks, long branches or old coconut husks. All it takes is perseverance and one perfectly accurate throw. As a local once explained to us, though, it is important to be careful not to damage the stems and destroy future harvests.

Then take all the coconuts to a jagged rock and start bashing in the ends like a caveman. There’s something that brings out the primal instincts in someone when they’re able to provide solely off Mother Nature. And it doesn’t get much rawer than living off the land in the Corn Islands.

Finally, after a day of coconut hunting, kick back with a fresh homemade piña colada.  Enjoy!

A Day in the Life: Big Corn Island Fishing with a Local

“Hurry up boy, dem fish be gone soon!” Elton playfully shouts as we hurriedly load up his tiny two-man fiberglass canoe. Today there’s three of us, and with all the gear, it’ll be a miracle if we make it back without capsizing.

We’re going out to fish for lunch, local Caribbean style. Our destination; the Caribbean Sea off the coast of Big Corn Island, Nicaragua. No fancy motored boat, no high tech fishing gear or GPS radar. Just a couple of hand lines tied onto plastic bottles, metal scraps for sinkers, a bag of frozen sardines and a whole lot of local know-how from our friend Elton.

Elton was our next-door neighbour during our week long stay on Big Corn Island. His family has owned their beach front property for generations, back when the land was cheap and the opportunistic greed for development was low. It’s what makes his spot great. A spacious beach front property, empty of town houses or apartment buildings, on the backside of the island, looking out to a distant horizon of clear Caribbean waters.

From as long as Elton can remember this house has been home to more than your average nuclear family. He is one of 10 siblings, with more uncles and aunties than you can throw a coconut at. There are nieces, nephews, cousins, grandchildren and just about every other relative you could spot on a family tree tossed into the mix. People come and go, but everyone plays a role. Some wash clothes, others cook, fix things around the house or work in local shops. The dad makes his own fresh coconut oil from the coconut trees on the family plot. And Elton is the fisherman.

And this is where our day in the life kicks off.

“Seriously boy, dam we gonna catch some fish todey”! His English is really good, but sometimes his thick Caribbean accent makes it hard to understand. At times there’s a mixture of Spanish, Caribbean English and even some native Creole thrown into the conversations, so when I’m not sure what he’s said I just nod my head and say ‘yeah boy’, which always gets a positive response.

Elton’s canoe is definitely a homemade job, and just about everything else we’re using follows the same handy resourcefulness. One paddle is simply two pieces of wood nailed together, and the other a salvaged kiddy paddle from a children’s canoe. But it does the job, and within a half hour we’re a few hundred meters off shore. He throws his anchor, an old car’s wheel disc tied to some thick fishing rope, and we’re settled.

I’ve got no idea where we’re fishing; it all looks the same to me, but Elton knows what we’re looking for. He says we’re 10 ‘fathoms’ deep, and I only realise later that this refers to his ‘technical measurement’ of how many arm lengths of line he drops before hitting the bottom.

Whatever the science, it seems to work and before long we’re slinging in all types of fish. Grunt and Yellow-Tailed snapper are hungry today, and we pull up a bucket load of them within the first 20 minutes. There’s also the exotic Parrot fish, something called an Old Wife and a big old barracuda that keeps cutting our catch in half with it’s razor sharp teeth. As soon as you drop your hand line over the edge you’ve got to be on guard to yank up and snag a fish once you feel it biting. Wait too long and you’ve lost your bait.

Elton starts to tell us all about his fishing experiences and handy tips that have been passed down from generation and generation. As we rock around, and try not to capsize our minuscule vessel, Elton launches into a story about how the ocean used to be full of aggressive Tiger sharks. Just what we need!

“Oh boy, you’d fish dem wit rope and massive hooks, but be careful not to throw dem en de boat! Dem still bite ya”. But that was before his time, and he assures us you don’t see them that often now.

Either way it’s a scary thought, and when I hook something that gives a decent fight I start to get a little nervous pulling it in. It’s still fighting right up until the surface before I see an unmistakable fin pop out, followed by a fat shark’s head.

“What the hell! I’ve hooked a shark!” I scream, half with excitement and half with fear. My first thought is, what the heck do I do with this? Before I have too long to worry Elton yells over, “give me dat boy, don’t put dat en de boat!”

I pass over the line and he takes care of it with ease. It’s a nurse shark, 2-3ft and not particularly dangerous, but try thinking that while it’s all but jumping into your lap. Needless to say it was a definite highlight and an encounter Elton retells at least a dozen times throughout the day.

After a mammoth haul of fish, something like 35, we decide to call it a day.

Once back on the shore we’re starving, but the job isn’t done yet. Like a one man machine, Elton one by one scales, cuts and prepares the 35 odd fish we brought in. I’d offer to assist, but he has a routine that sees the work done within the hour, so I provide conversation. Elton describes the preparation and cooking steps.

Once gutted, the fish get washed out with clean water and then stuffed with a combination of salt, black pepper, garlic and lime juice. Dabbed with a bit of flour on the sides, they’re then placed into a bubbling pan of 100% freshly made coconut oil to deep fry. The same fresh coconut oil his father prepared that day. They’re cooked until golden brown, with some sliced up plantain chips.

And the taste. Wow. Deep fried crispy skin, yet scrumptiously succulent on the inside, with a hint of special seasoning. We cook up for everyone in the house, and suddenly people from all around come out of the woodwork for a delicious lunch. A whole massive dish of food and we all eat until we can’t eat anymore. Laughing and retelling the stories of today’s catch.

After dinner it’s time to relax. Elton drags out a 5ft speaker from inside the house, noticeably proud of how big this thing is. We’re expecting the brutally obnoxious beats of reggaeton music, but are surprised but the subtlety smooth sounds of country music. From Spanish country ballads, to Kenny Rogers, Elton is in his element sitting around with friends, drinking some rum and listening to guitars twang about broken hearts and broken hands.

As he explains, Big Corn, in the past, was without any real radio station of it’s own. The only thing they could pick up was a country music station from the mainland. Whole generations grew up on nothing but country music, and like a big barracuda, they’re hooked. So this is what gets played most of the night.

The night continues on for a few hours and we get through some cheap sugar cane spirits. A couple of dollars for 2 litres sees that we’re done and dusted by 10pm. One last drink to top off the night, a sneaky pick at some remaining fish, a massive hug and we call it a night. After all, the early fisherman gets the fish!

The Little Corn Island Backpacking Guide

Little Corn Island Backpacking: Everything You Need to Know

So you’ve made it to Little Corn Island, Nicaragua! And like us, you’ve quickly realized it’s heaven on earth. You look out towards the horizon and see the sun shinning on bright turquoise waters. As the water approaches the shore it fades away to crystal clear, before splashing upon glistening sands. Coconut trees are so close to the shore that they hang out into the water and create natural shade along the miles of untouched beach.

You do a full 360 turn and realize you’re the only person. Paradise!

After 2 weeks on Little Corn Island we were pretty tempted to drop off the bags and take up residency, but we knew it was only a matter of time before we got called back to the road.

It’s a tough life relaxing on secluded beaches, hanging in hammocks, cooking dinner on beach bonfires and eating fresh fish, so we decided to create the ultimate Little Corn Island Backpacking Guide for the budget traveler to help you along the way. Just in case you need any more incentive to book your ticket and head to our favorite beaches in Nicaragua.

Accommodation on Little Corn Island

Little Corn offers all kinds of accommodation for the budget traveler and holiday goer. Isolated beach camping, rustic cabanas, dorm bed hostels and low range hotels. Whatever you’re looking for, the island has it covered. We posted up in the hostel Three Brothers for the whole time, and it was just what we needed. It’s centrally located, has $10 a night rooms for couples and a great kitchen to use. One of the few decent kitchens you’ll find in budget accommodation. You might need to walk an extra 10mins to get to the nicer beaches, but you’ll appreciate them more when you plan to make a proper day of it. And seriously, what else are you going to do with your day? It’s nice to wander through the town and say hello to the people leisurely going about their day.

Restaurants on Little Corn Island

There are a few bars on the sunset side that offer food, but if you’ve got a kitchen you’ll save a LOT of money by cooking. There’s also locally ran restaurants where you’ll find an assortment of food; rice and beans, fried fish, grilled conch, reasonably priced lobster and the famous ‘ron don‘, a seafood soup that contains a bit of everything. It’s a speciality of the island so you’ve got to try it at least once. Think of it like a seafood medley of all sorts.

In our experience, like always, cooking is still the way to go. Groceries and fresh produce may cost more on the island compared to the mainland, but they’re still a lot cheaper than buying food in the restaurants everyday. Especially if you throw in fresh fish caught that day by the local fisherman. After a couple of weeks we worked out some amazing recipes from the island that are cheap and bloody delicious. Homemade coconut bread (from collecting your own coconuts), vegetarian bean burgers, freshly grilled snapper and lots more. You’ve got the time, so get creative.

TIP: Bulk up on staple items before you head to the island, like rice, beans, pasta, tomato paste, oats, powdered milk, onion, garlic, spices and any luxury items like chocolate or rum. You can buy this stuff on the island from the assorted shops, but do your research. To get the best bargains you’ll need to jump around to different shops. Some sell oats cheaper, others onions, others potatoes, etc. Heading to a supermarket before you take a bus and boat to the Corn Islands is recommended.

Nightlife on Little Corn Island

It’s a small island, so you’re not going to find pumping club life or fancy live events. But when there is a party to be had, don’t expect the locals to take it lightly. We just happened to arrive on August 29th, the commemorative day on Little Corn for the abolition of slavery in 1841. As the story goes, the true date is officially recognized as August 27th, when the message arrived in Big Corn, but it took 2 whole days to get the announcement across the 7 mile sea separation, because the locals were too busy celebrating and were too drunk to paddle their canoes. We celebrated with the traditional Crab Soup Fesitval and they put on a massive free lunch for the whole island and it’s visitors.

A 10min walk out of the main street you’ll find the local baseball field. On Sundays you can cruise down with some lunch and settle in for an entertaining afternoon of fun. Just like a scene out of the Sandlot, nobody really keeps score or cares about winning. There’s lots of shouting and screaming at each other, but the kids have a blast and play until it’s too dark to see the ball.

To wind down from a tough day of sunbathing, grab a beer and watch the sunset at Tranquilo. One of the only bars on the island, this place gets filled at night with locals and travelers enjoying the drinks and laidback island tunes. They offer happy hour beers for 30C ($1.20) between 5pm-7pm and all day Wednesday and Saturday. They’ve also got one of the few access points to free internet if you’re feeling detached from the world.

For after hours there’s a very elusive bar called Happy Hut that has random opening hours. It could be shut, or it could be open till sunrise pumping out reggae hits like we found out one night.

Best Beaches in Nicaragua

The beaches! They are incredible. Seriously they’re the best beaches I’ve ever seen. Apart from being postcard perfect, they’re totally secluded and private. Everyday we’d walk out to a new spot and have it completely to ourselves. Swim, snorkel, enjoy a picnic or just relax. You’ll hear about Otto’s beach being one of the better ones, and it really is. There’s also hidden beaches and private coves, but you’ll have to go exploring to find them. One pro tip would be to invest in a decent hammock. We had our Eno Double Hammock, which was one of the best things we bought to the islands. There’s nothing like having a super comfortable hammock for some serious relax time.

Be sure to explore the beaches of Little Corn. One night we went down to the private coves to cook a bonfire dinner and stumbled across a HUGE sea turtle laying her eggs. We were careful to only observe from a distance and let her do her thing, only once in a while creeping a little closer to get a glimpse of this magnificent animal. After a couple of hours of digging, laying and hiding she finally waddled off the the ocean and swam away into the night. According to locals this was an extremely rare sight, but they are around.

Activities on the Corn Islands

For the more adventurous type the island also offers some amazing snorkeling and diving. You can get your open water certificate at a number of schools for just under $300, or take some of the more advanced courses/dives. If you’re not qualified, or short on money, there’s also fishing trips or snorkeling to the reefs that start at $20. If you’re even poorer, like us, you can rent a snorkel mask and flippers for $2.50 for 6 hours at some of the dive shops. Or if you want an authentic experience make friends with a local fisherman who will take you out fishing in exchange for a buddy to share a bottle of rum with.

Getting Around

Here’s one of the best things about the island. There’s no cars! Not even motorbikes! No noise, no smog, no hassling, just bikes and foot traffic. There’s one concrete footpath that runs along the dock side with a couple of side paths, but otherwise it’s just simple dirt tracks. This just adds to the incredibly peaceful serenity of the island.

Is Little Corn Island Safe?

You’re on an island of less than 2000 people, so there’s not much that stays a secret. People are respectful and expect the same, so don’t get caught breaking the rules or being a tool. Because the island is small it also means people won’t hassle you and it’s safe to walk about at night. As always, exercise caution and have your wits about you.

Also be aware of the territorial dogs. I stumbled into the wrong area one day and ended up with a decent bite on the ankle. A few worried minutes later I was relieved to discover that Little Corn has been rabies free since 2003, but it still freaks you out a bit when you’re waiting out that first week to see if you’re the one exception. There’s no need to be nervous, but a decent travel insurance goes a long way to ease the mind.

Other than that it’s all happy days and relaxing nights ahead on your travel to Little Corn Island!

Secluded beaches means tanning that white butt!

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