Julian Hatfield Author | Don't Forget To Move

Our 5 First Impressions of Cambodia

A month and a half into our trip and we’re really starting to feel at home in Southeast Asia. Thailand was beautiful, but we couldn’t shake the feeling of being on the same well-worn path, following every other backpacker. We were hoping in Cambodia we’d be able to ditch the touristy spots and explore by ourselves. After two weeks in this amazing country, we’ve definitely been able to do just that. We can’t wait to continue exploring and creating our own trail, but for now here are our 5 first impressions from Cambodia.

“We felt a sense of adventure, like how travelers might have felt when exploring Thailand 20 years ago or so”

Off The Beaten Track Travel

After spending a month island hopping in the south of Thailand, we were looking forward to getting off the tourist trail for a bit. Our first stop in Cambodia was the town of Siem Reap located next to the ruins of Angkor Wat. With thousands of tourist heading to the famous ruins daily, it’s not surprising this area is packed with travelers.

Even still we were able to get out off the beaten track pretty quickly. Just a few hours east of Siem Reap is the Cambodian countryside. We stayed in the town of Banlung, a small city that is a jumping off point for many outdoor activities in the region. With just a handful of guesthouses, this city is a breath of fresh air away from the tourist trail. When we hopped on a moto to explore the area, we felt a sense of adventure, like how travelers might have felt when exploring Thailand 20 years ago or so. Dusty dirt roads took us out to local villages where no one spoke English and we were the only backpackers for miles.

Car Horn Honking

We knew that the horn was a widely used accessory in Southeast Asia, but the Cambodians take it to a whole new level of craziness. Zipping around the highways in minivans I’d say the driver is on a 50/50 horn to silence ratio. Any and every single time the driver goes to overtake someone, go round a corner or pass through a town they just press down and let it rip.

When we asked our Cambodian friend about this he said it was actually a sign the driver was being responsible. He said that if the driver didn’t send out their endlessly ear piercing horn at every opportunity, that the chances of crashing could be higher. That made us a little more confident in our drivers, but eliminated any chance of getting some sleep.

The Food

Maybe we were spoiled by copious amounts of delicious street food in Thailand, but for some reason we just don’t think the food in Cambodia is as good as it’s neighbor. Particularly as vegetarians, Thailand seems to have had a lot more choices in terms of curries and noodle dishes, and the quality of tofu was definitely a lot better.

Our Cambodian cuisine so far has consisted of a lot of egg baguettes, which in itself is a nice change to eating noodles and rice for three meals, but when it comes to curries and such we haven’t found too many good ones. We tried the traditional dish of fish Amok (a Cambodian curry), but made the mistake of ordering it when we were inland, away from the coast. The curry itself wasn’t bad, but the fish was so chewy it was like biting into a piece of rubber.

One food that Cambodia, or at least Siem Reap, has an abundance of is… marijuana pizza. Wait, what? Yea, we’re not really sure either, but we’ve been warned that the restaurants selling “happy pizzas” are laced with marijuana. We haven’t tried it, but have noticed a lot of spaced out looking travelers wandering around town.

” A whole pitcher of the local beers Cambodia or Angkor will only cost you $2. Not bad when you consider that same pitcher of beer in Australia would cost $20! “

Cheap Draft Beer

Finally, some cheap beer! Surprisingly Thailand was a bit expensive when it came to nights out drinking. In Cambodia we were happy to find that draft beer was readily available and cheap! A glass of beer at most bars and restaurants will only set you back 50c, and a whole pitcher of the local beers Cambodia or Angkor will only cost you $2. Not bad when you consider that same pitcher of beer in Australia would cost $20!

It’s not the best beer you’ve ever tasted, but it gets the job done and you can’t complain too much in this hot and humid dust bowl. We’ve actually come to enjoy it quite a lot over the last two weeks!

The People

In Thailand we were blown away by how friendly the locals were and that hasn’t changed now that we’ve entered Cambodia. From shopkeepers to random people we’ve meet on the bus, the hospitality is incredible. When we were out exploring a waterfall near Banlung, a group of Cambodians having a picnic invited us over to share their warm beer and mango slices. Another time Jules was walking and a group of tuk-tuk drivers called him over to share a beer (this time ice cold). We’re not sure if this generosity is more due to friendliness or the beers are just so cheap they’re giving them away, but we’ve enjoyed the hospitality.

Not only are the adults in Cambodia very friendly, but the kids are as well. In Thailand we got the feeling that the local children were so used to seeing Western travellers, they didn’t have much interest anymore. Here the children are really curious about us. When we were cruising through the rural villages on our moto, almost every child we saw waved after us, shouting “hello!” We love chatting with local kids, especially because many of them know a bit of English, and are happy to see that Cambodia kids want to interact with us as well.

How does our list compare to your thoughts? What were your first impressions of Cambodia? Drop us a comment below or hit us up on Facebook or Twitter!

Phuket Backpacking Guide: More Than Just The Resorts

Flying into Phuket we weren’t sure what to expect from this well known and very well worn tourist destination in southern Thailand. Most of the people I know that have been to Thailand have visited Phuket at some stage on their trip; from long-term budget backpackers to flashy holidayers and romantic honeymooners. So it seemed like a place for everyone and anyone to enjoy, and we were ready for it! With that in mind we entered Phuket with an open mind and a willingness to experience everything that was on offer.

Phuket is an island off the south-eastern coast, which is regarded as one of Thailand’s prime tourism destinations. With its lavish beachside resorts, stunning coastline, adventure activities, local culture and family friendly atmosphere, it’s no wonder herds of people from all over the world pack this spot throughout the year, particularly in high season when the weather is best.

Getting to Phuket

The most common way of traveling from Bangkok to Phuket is taking a flight or a bus. A bus, the more economical of the two, takes over 13 hours and is a long journey, while a flight is only an hour and a half direct from Bangkok. If you’re able to book in advance you can get some really cheap flights and at the expensive of losing a day to travel we would recommend taking a flight to give you more time on this beautiful island.

Traveling Around Phuket

Phuket backpacking has many things on offer, some more exciting than others. For the beach lovers the coasts of Patong, Karon, Kata and Rawii, among many others, are superb. That’s if you can beat the masses to secure a spot. For the adventure seeker there is anything from shooting ranges and Muy Thai training camps to zip-lining and riding ATVs. There are quiet local bars or rowdy international hot spots full of live sport, go-go dancers and plenty of tattoo shops.

And while we’re not here to preach, I would recommend against those monkey shows, elephant rides and Tiger temples. Unfortunately tourist money often trumps animal welfare at these types of attractions.

So far Phuket backpacking might sound pretty touristy, but there are many more cultural activities you can enjoy with a simple tour of the island. If you’re game we recommend hiring a scooter from the abundance of rental stores scattered throughout Phuket. At 200-250 baht ($7-8) a day you really get the best value for money, especially if there are two of you to split the price. One single ride taxi per person could cost upwards of 200-300 baht depending on where you’re going, so if you want to get around and see all the sites, a scooter is easily your best option. Either way, here’s a couple of fun activities to do around Phuket…

Big Buddha

The drive up to Big Buddha is roughly a half hour from Phuket Town, and takes you on a really nice windy backstreet ride through more of rural Phuket. Scale the mountain side and climb to one of the best viewpoints in all of Phuket. You get a picturesque 360 degree look at the island. Aside from a really beautiful viewpoint of the city you can marvel at some stunning Buddhist statues and see the ongoing construction of Phuket’s 45m tall Buddha. For those wanting to pay tribute, or simply be a part of the action, you can purchase your very own construction tile and write a message on it. It’s a nice touch, albeit a little touristy.

As a side note, remember that this is a religious site for the Thai, and that you’re a guest to their country and culture. Ladies you’ll need to cover those shoulders and knees, guys you won’t be asked to, but it’d be respectful to dress appropriately anyway. Although they’ll provide you with shawls to cover up if you forget, don’t be like some of those people we saw show up in just a bikini and board shorts 30km from the beach. And we’re not even kidding!

The Beaches

The beaches of Phuket are stunning, even if they are crowded. That being said, if you’re looking for a quiet spot you can still find one. For some reason most people crowd into the same spots along the beaches of Patong, Karon and Kata, but you can find quiet spots to yourself if you take a walk outside the tourist zone. We’d recommend the long stretch of Karon, where we found isolated sections all along the sand.

Phuket Town Weekend Night Market

Situated about 30mins walk from town, or a short taxi ride, you can get right into the market mix with the Phuket Town Weekend Night Market. It’s a hustle and bustle of cheap knock off clothes, tantalizing smells wafting through the air and people packed to the rafters. Considering how touristy it is, if you’re looking for a bargain buy it’s decently priced compared to other spots on the island.

If you’re not interested in shopping we still recommend checking it out for the food and the experience. Think of it like a Thai version of tapas, where you can walk up and down the aisles picking at loads of different foods and sampling everything. If you’re new to Thailand food it’s a fantastic way to try everything in a night! Don’t forget to try the mango sticky rice for dessert!

Siray Sea Gypsy Village

If you’re staying in Phuket Town there’s a pretty cool half day trip you can check out only 20mins from town. Just 6km from Phuket Town, into nearby Ko Siray, you’ll find the sea gypsies, a small community of people famous for their nomadic wandering throughout the Andaman Sea. Due to development around Phuket they’re not as nomadic as they used to be, instead taking up temporary residence in a small shanty town on the coast of Koh Siray.

It’s an interesting contrast to the flashy resorts and development off the west coast and if you’re going to check them out try and head there earlier in the day when the fisherman are getting back in with their morning catch. Admittedly when we showed up around 1pm most of the men were asleep out the front of house (or drinking), and the women were gambling at the back of the house.

3 Beaches Viewpoint and Promthep Cave

On the west side of the island there are some terrific cliff top spots to take in the scenery and catch the sundown. From 3 Beaches Viewpoint (often called Karon Viewpoint or Kata Viewpoint) you’ll get an awesome view of Kata, Karon and Patong beach all in a row. It’s a pretty amazing sight!

At Promthep Cave Viewpoint you get another perfect look up the northern coastline, with all its jagged coves and peaks on display. This is a particular crowd favorite for sunset, and you can expect to see a lot of people here. The 3 Beaches Viewpoint is considerably quieter in terms of other tourists, and you’ll definitely have a bit more room to move compared to Promthep Cave. Both are free to view, so if you’re not impressed with one, check out the other.

Overall we found Phuket to be a really enjoyable first stop on our year long adventure. Staying in Phuket Town was a nice break from the crowds and we really enjoyed staying at some of the hostels there, like Ananas Hostel and Eco Hostel. If you’re headed to Phuket Town, be sure to check out our review of each place.

Observations from a Backstreet Bangkok Hostel

Sitting in a smelly, stuffy and crowded backstreet Bangkok hostel I take a second to look up from my computer and have a glance around. I scan the room for all the unusual, yet somewhat classic, characters that Bangkok drags in. It feels like no matter where you go in the Thailand there’s always the same combination of people that fill up these grungy budget residences. Same story, same background, just a different name and face. I’m starting to see where the phrase ‘same same but different’ comes from.

– Not the lady from my observation, but another on the street –

I look to my left. There’s a young attractive Thai lady in the corner, dressed to the nines in 6 inch heels and a tight black dress at 1pm in the afternoon. I wonder what she’s up to, and as I watch her from afar she catches my eye. Even behind the dark tint of my cheap knock off Ray Bans she can tell I’m looking at her; it’s like she can see straight through them. She gives me a wink, I smile politely, and then look away. I don’t want to judge, but I have a feeling I know why she’s here.

I wonder if this is her territory, and then my mind trails off on lots of different thoughts about the intricate politics and etiquette of street prostitution in Bangkok

She goes behind the counter and takes a drink out of the fridge with an air of confidence that tells me she either works here, or has done this a few times. I wonder if this is her territory, and then my mind trails off on lots of different thoughts about the intricate politics and etiquette of street prostitution in Bangkok. I think of the documentary Whores’ Glory about prostitutes in Thailand that we watched before arriving and I’m even more fascinated in knowing her story.

I try not to stare, instead intriguingly observe from afar as a man approaches the woman, who is now casually sipping on a can of Coke and playing a game on her tablet. He’s middle aged, and I’d been watching him before she arrived. He was dotting around on a WordPress dashboard, which is what initially drew my attention. Is he a website creator, an IT guy, or maybe even a blogger? He doesn’t look a like a blogger, but then I started thinking, ‘what does a blogger look like anyway?’

The man casually chats with the Thai lady about a couple of things and shows her some kind of brochure he has in his hand. I try to listen in, but the story jumps all over the place. I get the impression he’s doing a really bad job of picking her up, or he’s working up the nerve to inquire about her potential services. Whatever he’s doing, it doesn’t seem like he’s very good at it. She becomes frustratingly bored of his attempts to get her email address to ‘send her some pictures’ and after a while he gives up and goes back to his computer.

They’re wearing all kinds of obscure garments with big smiles on their faces, which I’m assuming were created by this tailor.

Behind me is one of the ever-available suit tailors of Thailand that constantly line the tourist streets, which for some reason are never operated by Thais. So far the vast majority of them appear to be from Myanmar, India or Nepal. I take a scan of his shop, Smith’s Fashion. It looks pretty standard in terms of street tailors, with its pictures of foreigners proudly displayed in the windows. They’re wearing all kinds of obscure garments with big smiles on their faces, which I’m assuming were created by this tailor. There are also pieces of paper in the shop window with writing from languages all over the world singing the praises of this particular business. You can tell by the presentation that he takes his job very seriously, even if he is a little annoying with his persistence in selling you a suit.

As I round my full circle of the room I spot in the far corner the resident hostel travel operator. She’s a 30-something Thai lady sitting behind a wide glass desk, with a look of extreme boredom on her face. She stares out the front door into the distance and I watch her for a while to see if she’s looking at something in particular or just drifting off. Behind her desk the back wall is full of old Thai tourism advertisements, with faded and tattered locations made famous along the tourist trail.

I wonder how much business she could be making, and whether it’s enough to warrant her time. Surely it must be, or she wouldn’t be doing it, but it doesn’t seem like she pulls in many clients. Just then she snaps out of her trance, gets up abruptly and grabs her purse. Where is she going? Maybe, just like me, she’s suddenly realised how hungry she is. And with that I close my computer once more and head out to get some delicious street Pad Thai.

Have you ever had a backstreet Bangkok hostel moment like this? Tell us all about it and we’ll share the best on our Facebook and Twitter!

Guys Packing List for Southeast Asia

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After more than a decade of backpacking you’d think I have my packing list down to a tee, but once again I found myself frantically sorting through all my options when it comes down to organizing my bag for backpacking South East Asia. As a guy packing for Southeast Asia you’d assume it to be easy; board shorts, singlets, couple of shirts and your favorite party shirt, but to maximize your space there’s a little more thought that should go into your planning.

So how do you pack your bags for a year on the road? In a nutshell, its a combination of research and past experience. I had the experience, but now I needed the research. For the first time ever I actually sat down and did some forward thinking on the climates we were going to be traveling through. What I found was pretty consistent across the board for Southeast Asia weather… hot and humid, with a decent chance of rain.

With that in mind I started to look for light, breathable clothes that wouldn’t weigh me down and take up too much space. Finally I was starting to put a little thought into my packing list. This time I swore I was going to be more planned and prepared, as opposed to rushed and unorganized.

In the past I’ve been known to just throw anything into a bag and hit the road. I’d choose style over practicality, and comfort over space saving. But those days are over, and I’m here to share with you the best packing list for men traveling to Asia.

Best Tops to Pack

1 Patagonia Micro D Fleece

1 Patagonia Torrentshell Rain Jacket

2 T-shirts

2 Singlets

3 Button Down Shirt

Most of the weather in Southeast Asia is hot and humid, so I’m not really going to need too much cold weather gear. In saying that I have still packed a couple of items to combat the odd cold night, and the very frequent downpours during the rainy season.

I’ve gone for a super lightweight black Patagonia fleece as my only warm upper layer. To battle the rain I’ve got a light breathable Patagonia shell jacket to keep me cool and dry. This is definitely going to be handy during monsoon season in the Philippines. (I feel like a bit of a walking advertisement for Patagonia, but I honestly just love their gear!)

For other tops I’ve thrown in a couple of breathable cotton t-shirts, some singlets and my favorite party shirt, knowing that I don’t need much because Southeast Asia is a mecca for cheap disposable clothes at every stop along the way. If you’re tossing up whether to bring that extra t-shirt or shirt… don’t! I’ve probably got one too many to be honest, but when going away for the year it’s nice to have your own clothes sometimes.

Pants to Pack

1 Patagonia Cotton Pants

5 Board Shorts

1 Running Shorts

I’m definitely bottom heavy on this trip, as I’ve packed a lot of different styles of shorts. I’ve only opted for one pair of long pants, choosing a pair of light cotton pants from Patagonia (in case I need to go anywhere classy). The rest are are all board shorts with pockets.

Board shorts are the definite winner on the backpacking checklist for Southeast Asia. They have so many practical functions; light to wear and pack, quick to dry and never need ironing. You can take them for a run, then jump in the beach and let them dry off as you walk home. Jump in the shower and wash them with yourself and then hang up to dry. You’ll never need to pay someone else to wash them.

Best Shoes for Southeast Asia Travel

Nike Free Runs

Teva Men’s Sandal

Havaianas

Even though you can get cheap knock offs of most shoes I’ve gone for the originals on this trip, because sometimes you can’t substitute quality. I’ve packed the mandatory Havaianas thongs (or flip-flops to you non-Aussies), a pair of light Nike Free Runs and some Teva sandals.

Free Runs, or any other shoes with that light, compactable material are great to travel with if you like to stay active. I know they’re not the best work out shoe due to a lack of support, but they sure beat packing your heavy cross-trainers.

And the Teva sandals. Let me stop your trail of thought by saying, I get it! I used to think Teva’s were only reserved for Americans, like it was something you could only buy if you worked for the Peace Corp or in a summer camp, but boy was I wrong. These are by far the best addition to my traveling checklist. As someone with flat arches, my Teva sandals offer way more support and comfort than rubber flip-flops ever could. With a handy clasp buckle to clip on and off and a neutral color scheme, I like to think I make them look stylish, even if your first thought is middle-aged tourist with knee high white socks.

Other Stuff on the Backing List

1 Baseball Cap

1 UV Buff

5 Pairs of Jocks

3 Pairs of Socks

As a guy traveling Southeast Asia there aren’t as many nifty accessory options. As a girl, you’ve got so many more options in multifunctional and beautiful patterned shawls and colorful sarongs (For a full list be sure to check out Christine’s Girls Packing List for Southeast Asia). What do guys get… hats. Rather than purchase some of the cheaper knock-offs I brought along a couple of things from back home. My SF Giants hat to represent along the way, and a super functional Buff (High UV Pro).

If you’re not familiar with Buff headwear you should check them out. They’re extremely well suited to the hot, humid and sunny regions of Southeast Asia to protect you from the heat and cool you down. They also have an SPF 50 factor to limit the suns harsh UV rays from penetrating straw hats and the like.

I’ve also got some socks and jocks, but not too many. Everything you’ll need is here and a quarter of the price if you need to buy something along the way. I’m on a wash one, wear one rotation at the moment with the jocks, and I haven’t even brought out any of the socks I packed.

So there you have it, my year long list of accessories and clothes for Southeast Asia all summed up beautifully in this short post. This is basically me for the year, bar a couple of purchases along the way to restock my ratty clothes that will inevitably wear down and fall apart. It might seem like a few things, but considering I’m living out of a backpack for the next year it really isn’t a lot. My whole life packed into a 70L backpack and hauled onto my back, trudging through the excitement of backstreet Bangkok, hiking the uninhabited countryside of Cambodia and popping in for a swim with turtles in the Philippines.

Last word of advice, pack light and be prepared to add to your clothes selection after seeing how cheap some of the stuff is in Southeast Asia!

What Should I Have Packed?

There aren’t too many things that I missed along the trip. When it comes to clothes a lot can be bought over here. There are definitely a couple of gadgets and gizmos that I might have included, but you can check out that post to see all the little extras we missed.

What Should I Have Left At Home?

Probably just the quantity of clothes. Everything we packed was handy, but we probably just packed too much. My rain jacket was useful for all those rainy days, but it didn’t get a massive workout because when it rains the best thing to do is just get under cover. T-shirts, shorts and shirts are in an abundance and if you don’t pack as many items you’ll have a little more room to pick up some fun travel souvenirs along the journey. I definitely should have cut back on those and as a result I ended up ditching a few along the way.

A Great Ocean Road Backpackers Guide: Lorne to Port Fairy

If you’re heading down to Melbourne on your travels around Australia, the Great Ocean Road is inevitably on your itinerary, and rightly so. This gorgeous coastal drive is quintessential Australia. During our two-day trip, we swam in beautiful beaches, got up close to native wildlife and ate our own weight in delicious local produce. We enjoyed our trip so much we couldn’t squeeze it all in one post. So here’s a Great Ocean Road Backpacking Guide Part Two: Lorne to Port Fairy! If you missed Part 1: Melbourne to Lorne you can check it out here.

Apollo Bay

Another town like Lorne, Apollo Bay is a good place to stop by for lunch or a snack. And just like Lorne is has an array of souvenir shops, nice beaches and waterfall hikes. To be honest I’ve never really spent much time in Apollo Bay, as I’ve always just opted to pass right through after stopping previously in Lorne. I mean it looks great, and I’m sure it’s really nice, but by this stage all you really want to do is hit the other spots before the bus loads of tourists roll up.

Great Otway National Park

After Apollo Bay you’ll need to cut inland to bypass Cape Otway. Follow the windy road that splits the trees and be sure to take a detour into the National Park via Otway Lighthouse Rd. As you make your way through the park don’t forget to look up. This area is famous for koalas just leisurely chilling in the trees that border the road. Check for other cars pulled up by the side of the road that have spotted them, or keep your eyes peeled.

At the end of the road you’ll hit the Cape Otway Lightstation, which is Australia’s oldest operating mainland lighthouse. It’s been trying to steer ships clear since 1848, and while its done a top job, there are also many unfortunte stories of loss along south-west Victoria’s treacherous shipwreck coast. Experience the full ordeal by taking a tour of the lighthouse and surrounding areas to learn about the history.

“We were unlickly greeted by a huge Tiger snake, one of Australia’s most deadly!”

The Rocks

Ah yes, the rocks! What everyone came down to see. Don’t be mistaken by thinking that the 12 Apostles are the only delight along the way. Before you get to the main attraction be sure to stop at Gibson Steps, just outside of Princetown. These steps are believed to have been first carved into the cliff face by the original Kirrae Whurrong inhabitants, and since that time were maintained by the early settler Hugh Gibson who would use the access route. After descending down the path, you’ll find yourself on the foot of a wide, serene beach. Many people skip this stop, eager to get to the 12 Apostles, but it’s definitely worth your time. We had the beach almost entirely to ourselves and enjoyed the peaceful calm of the landscape.

Just a few minutes down the road are the car park and visitor centre for the 12 Apostles. There are a couple of different viewing platforms to take in these natural beauties and marvel at their creation. The 12 Apostles are a series of limestone rock formations that have been eroded by centuries of relentless power from the ocean. As an Aussie I might be slightly biased here, but they are absolutely amazing! Well worth the trip down!

There are a couple of tracks that take you to different view points, so be sure to follow them all. And while the path is well constructed and maintained, but don’t be fooled by the presentation, you’re still in the wild. As we were walking back to the car park we were unluckily greeted by a huge tiger snake, one of Australia’s most deadly. It popped its head out of the shrubs on the side and slithered across the path, chilled for a while as a crowded gather, and then took off into the bushes. Despite my calls to stay back and be careful a group of foolhardy tourists chased after it, as a mother almost pushed her pram over it. Seriously, if you see one, stay back!

After the 12 Apostles there are also the sensational rock formations of Loch Ard Gorge, London Bridge, Mutton Island and The Grotto. All with their unique story of either shipwrecks, native wildlife inhabitants or formation.

Port Campbell / Peterborough / Warrnambool

Each town a little bigger than the last. There are some places to sleep, eat and a couple of things to see, but nothing major. Take a little drive around to see what the quieter side of Victoria looks like compared to the hustle and bustle of Melbourne. If you want a decent, but greasy, meal check the appropriately named Frying Nemo at the Port Campbell petrol station to get your fish and chips fix. Well priced and sure to fill your stomach.

South Warrnambool has a surprisingly beautiful beach for a cool down if the sun is out in the afternoon.

“Take a walk though the trails to spy native Australia animals going about their daily business.”

Tower Hill Reserve

Just 10 minutes out of Warrnambool is an awesome little location of natural wildlife and wonder. The reserve is set around an ancient volcanic crater and has grown up around the natural lake that formed in the middle. Drive in one way and follow the road that snakes its way through the reserve. Stop in the little parking bays and take a walk through the trails to spy native Australian animals going about their daily business. Dawn and dusk are generally the best times to catch the animals, but kangaroos can usually be seen round the clock. We recommend taking a picnic lunch or dinner to compliment the scenic sights and kick back in nature, it’s pretty awesome.

Port Fairy

Last on the Great Ocean Road Backpackers Guide is the quaint little town of Port Fairy. Established during early 19^th Century this town has come a long way, but it has also made a really good effort to stick to its roots. There’s a couple of fun things to see in the area including Battery Hill, an old fort, and a beautiful port full of fishing ships.

If you’re looking for a drink to unwind from a big day of driving, swing into The Caledonian Inn and have a beer at Victoria’s oldest continually licensed hotel. It first started serving in 1844, and has been going strong ever since.

By now you should have a pretty good starting point to explore the amazing sights and places of the Great Ocean Road. There are loads more things to do, but we reckon this should keep you busy for a couple of days. The more time you’re able to spend at each spot the more you’re going to get out of them, so try not to skip past just for the sake of a photo. If you’re short on time pick the things that appeal to you and really enjoy them. If you miss something, so be it! It always gives you a reason to come back again!

Missed the first part? Come check out A Great Ocean Road Backpackers Guide: Melbourne to Lorne!

What are you most excited to see down the famous Great Ocean Road? Drop us a comment below or find us on Facebook and Twitter!

A Great Ocean Road Backpackers Guide: Melbourne to Lorne

No trip to Melbourne is complete without a trip down Southwest Victoria’s famous Great Ocean Road. Famed for its iconic coastal rock formations, superb surf spots, chilled out locals and exotic wildlife, the Great Ocean Road is a must see destination for all travelers visiting Melbourne. And with our Great Ocean Road Backpackers Guide we’ll make sure you don’t miss a moment along the way.

Many tour companies run day trips out of Melbourne, but they’re often rushed and miss the finer details that make this road trip so incredible. Instead of paying someone to take you on a crowded tourist bus we suggest rounding up a couple of extra backpackers to split a rental car in Melbourne. This way you’ll have the freedom of exploring all the spots along the way without the horde of tourists that make the trip down daily. And judging from the number of Wicked Campervans and Juicy Rentals we saw packed with backpackers along the way, this is a popular sentiment.

Beginning is easy. Start in Melbourne, head west on the Princes Fwy for an hour and make your first pit stop in…

Torquay

Famous for everything to do with surfing. Home of the major surfing label Rip Curl, the quintessential surf spot of Bells Beach and legendary surfboard shaper Maurice Cole, among many other things.

Torquay is the perfect spot to start your Great Ocean Road road trip! Browse the outlet stores for a bargain from some of the biggest surf brands in the world, or pick up a second hand surfboard to try your luck at the waves.

It’s also where my folks live. And because I’m now an international nomad there’s always a free bed in my room. So hit them up! (Sorry mum). Otherwise the foreshore caravan park is a great central spot to stay if you want to have a crack at the waves. Don’t worry if you’re a beginner, Torquay also offers some of the best surf schools in Australia.

Bells Beach

This beach is technically in Torquay’s neighbor, Jan Juc, and it’s by far one of the most well known surfing spots not only in Australia, but also the world. Every year thousands of people make the trip down to Torquay over Easter to witness the surfing greats battle it out at the Rip Curl Pro. For the experienced surfers there are some amazing waves working all through this area. If Bells is busy try some of its neighbors in Winki-Pop, Centreside or Southside.

* Disclaimer * – To many tourists disappointment (and believe me I’ve been asked a number of times) this is not the final resting place of Bodhi from Point Break after the 50 year storm hit. The shooting of the classic Bells Beach scene was taken in none other than Oregon, USA.

Anglesea

Just 15 minutes down the road from Torquay is the quieter coastal town of Anglesea. It might not have the big surf shops and glamour of Torquay, but don’t underestimate this little town. Take a walk around the main street and sample some of the awesome food on offer. Although I’m now a vegetarian Jum’s Chicken Shop has been a favorite of mine since I was about ten years old. Hit up the chips and gravy for a real treat!

Another great activity is to take a drive up Noble St to the Anglesea Golf Course. On a nice quiet day you can spot kangaroos just lounging in the sun and kicking back on the gold course. Hop the fence and take a little walk around the course to see how close you can get to grab a few snaps.

Aireys Inlet

Another 10 minutes down the road you’ll come across Aireys Inlet. It’s even smaller than Anglesea, but has a pretty cool tourist attraction in the Spilt Point Lighthouse. Park at the base of the lighthouse and take a walk up to the point of the inlet. You can get some wicked views of the coast and even take a tour of the lighthouse. Prices start at $12 and go for about 45mins. From the top of the lighthouse you’ll get some sweet panoramic shots of the coast.

For all the Aussie readers, and possibly others around the world. This is also the lighthouse made famous by the popular early 90s children’s show Round the Twist. Be sure to take a picture in front of the lighthouse while singing the tune ‘have you ever… ever felt like this? When strange things happen, are you going round the twist?’

Lorne

Another 25mins or so along the curving Great Ocean Road and you’ll be in Lorne. Lorne is worth a stop to walk its main strip lined with outdoor cafes and shops selling kitschy beach souvenirs. There’s plenty of great roadside cut offs to take pictures, and observe the local scenery. Head towards Erskine Falls for a perfect opportunity to park the car, take a walk and stretch the legs. The trail isn’t particularly strenuous and you can cool off in the falls if it’s hot out. There’s also a range of other hikes and trails for those wanting to get deeper in the wild.

After the waterfalls take a stroll down the Lorne pier. At the end you’ll catch a cracking view, as well as a bunch of fisherman trying to catch some dinner. Check the huge sting-rays hanging around looking for a free feed. If you’re there during the evening, grab a spot on one of the benches and enjoy a stunning sunset.

With enough adorable beach towns and scenic coastal views to last for ages, it’s pretty hard to condense all of the Great Ocean Road into just one article. That’s why we’ve written another!

If you’re heading to the 12 Apostles and you want to see koalas and kangaroos in the wild for free, be sure check out our Great Ocean Road Backpackers Guide: Lorne to Port Fairy to see all the unmissable spots along the way.

A Beginners Guide to Editing Travel Photos

The first time I ever opened Photoshop to edit some photos I stared blankly at the screen for five minutes, tried to click a few buttons and then closed my laptop in defeat. Having never been particularly tech savvy I just didn’t know where to start! To me it looked more like a space station command center than a photo editing program, and my initial reaction was ‘it’s just too difficult’.

But like all things in life, you have to at least give it a crack before you can give up. So I sat myself down one afternoon with a beer and some new found confidence, and tried again.

Editing travel photos in Photoshop doesn’t have to be a massive mission. Instead it should be a fun and exciting journey to watch your great travel photos become even greater. Editing travel photos for publication is something everyone does, or at least they should do. There’s no shame in admitting that your photos look better once edited, so as a budding photographer or blogger this should be high on your agenda of things to learn about.

Before You Start Editing

Before I talk about editing travel photos in Photoshop, there’s just one golden rule! Don’t ever your new photos edits over your original photo. NEVER CLICK SAVE! There might be no turning back and you could be stuck with those changes.

Once you’re done with any edits always be sure to click ‘Save As’ or ‘Save As Web’. You want to leave the original photo file as it is, and you don’t want to save any permanent edits that can’t be undone. You never know when you might want to go back and make some changes. Specifically once your Photoshop skills improve.

An even better alternative is to make a duplicate copy of the file, and tinker around on that. Once you’ve opened your photo file go to Image–>Duplicate. A pop-up box gives you the option of naming it something different, or just calling it ‘copy’. Now you can play around with the duplicate without the worry of accidentally saving over your file.

Another handy function that might come in use, especially if you make a lot of edits that you’re not happy with is Revert. Found in File–>Revert, this function takes your picture back to its original state. If you’ve made a million and one changes and just want to get back to the start without going step by step, just hit Revert to take you back. Now you can start again!

An unedited raw shot of the beach. Notice the faded sky, bland colors and lack of pop!

Same photo using the ‘Color Balance’ function and a few other edits, Contrast and Vibrance. (Over exaggerated color used for example).

Same photo once again with a Black & White adjustment layer, some Smart Sharpen, a bit of Contrast and Levels work and a Color Balance adjustment layer.

Hit Up The Forums and YouTube

If you’re a newbie like I was, get ready to utilize the extensive range of resources on the internet. I can’t tell you how many YouTube videos I’ve watched over the last year that taught me how to create awesome black and white portrait pictures, or how to use functions like Levels, Curves, Layers, Smart Sharpen, Color Balance just to name a few.

It might seem like a stupid Google search request to ask ‘how to make photos black and white in Photoshop’, but let’s face it, there are much worse search responses than that. I mean just start to type ‘how to make…’ into Google and see what you get. A tutu, French toast, a paper plane and money are some of the top results! No question is too embarrassing for the internet.

Experiment!

Once you get familiar with the layout of Photoshop you’ll naturally start to spread out and experiment with more editing functions. Just sample everything! As long as you’ve made a copy you can go to town on your picture. Open up a couple of different styles of photo (portrait, landscape, beach, colorful, etc) and see how each change looks on each particular photo.

You’ll find that certain pictures work better with some changes than others. Some good beginner ones to check out under Image–>Adjustments are Vibrance, Brightness/Contrast, Color Balance, Hue/Saturation, Black & White and Shadows/Highlights.

A couple of easy edits using Vibrance, Contrast, Smart Sharpen and Saturation.

Using a Black & White adjustment layer first, then altering the Levels on the Background Layer. Next is Smart Sharpen and Highlights.

Stick With It

Photoshop can be incredibly complicated. As overwhelming as this feels for beginners it leaves a lot of room to grow and continue to develop your skills. When you’re just starting out, it can be frustrating to go into Photoshop with a vision, but not understand the steps it takes to achieve that vision. With a bit of persistence, however, you’ll soon learn the capabilities of each tool. As you continue you’ll find your Photoshop skills rapidly improving and your photos becoming better and better.

Your photos are often the most tangible memories you have from your travels. It’s an easy way to show your experiences to family and friends and a reminder for yourself just how incredible your adventures were. With a bit of Photoshop editing, your photos can turn into beautiful pieces of art and accurate reflections of the visuals of your journey.

Did you find our beginners guide to editing travel photos helpful? What tips and tricks would you like to learn next? Drop us a comment below or hit us up on Facebook or Twitter!

The Best Way to Spend an Afternoon of Activities in St Kilda

One of the best things about Melbourne is that the city is made up of such fun and diverse neighborhoods, each with their own unique vibe. Of these areas St. Kilda is a favorite for backpackers and locals alike. This eclectic beachside suburb has everything that you could ask for on a beautiful warm summer’s evening. Fine dining, grungy pubs, classy nightlife, boutique cake shops, a gorgeous beach, fairy penguins and it even has its own amusement park. Seriously what is missing?

Spending an afternoon of activities in St. Kilda isn’t a hard thing by any means. What’s hard is making sure you spend it the right way and don’t miss a thing!

Pre-Dinner Drinks

Take your pick from the plethora of selections and recommendations, but this is probably going to come down to individual choice. One thing’s for sure, you won’t struggle to find a location that suits your mood. The beachside bar at Republica is a great pick, as is anywhere along that boardwalk when the sun is high in the sky.

If you’re in the mood for something a little grungier hit up The Esplanade Hotel (affectionately known as The Espy) for a nice beach view. Grab a cold Victoria Bitter and sit out over the balcony and watch the afternoon go by. Another top recommendation is The Vineyard, if you can find a seat in the always packed out bar.

Pre-Drinks on a Budget

If you’re on a tight budget and can’t afford to sit in a bar or pub on $10 pints then our suggestion is to grab a couple of sneaky drinks from the bottle shop and hit up the beach or the park opposite Luna Park. You won’t be alone in choosing the cheaper option, especially if the sun’s out. Acland Cellars, on Acland St, has a MASSIVE collection of international and local beers, so if you’re craving something from back home this is your best bet. Swing past the bottle-o (liquor store), grab a sixer (six pack of beers) and she’ll be right (it’s all good).

Dinner

Another tough decision to be made. If the weather is great, money is tight and you want to enjoy the sun, you can’t beat some fish and chips to go, a couple of take away beers and a spot on the beach or in the park. You’ll find a few fish and chip shops on Acland St, in fact you’ll find pretty much everything you need on Acland St.

If you’re looking for something different, check out Lentil As Anything for a unique dining experience. Designed around the premise of ‘pay what you think your meal is worth’, this quirky little restaurant only serves vegetarian meals, is staffed by volunteers and has an honesty system where you choose how much you pay and anonymously deposit it into their collection box. Get ready to encounter long waits to get in on busy nights, shared communal dining and that awkward moment when you need to decide how much to give.

Otherwise there is an abundance of places to choose along Acland St and Fitzroy St. Both are jam packed with restaurants. La Porchetta is a simple Italian restaurant that never fails to fill the stomach with reasonably priced pizza and pastas.

Post Dinner

A post dinner stroll through St. Kilda is perfect at sunset. Head down the pier to the St. Kilda Breakwater to check out a little natural beach wildlife. No, I don’t mean those annoying seagulls or flopping fish, but actual warm climate penguins! You can join the crowd that gathers around sundown to watch these little guys gliding through the water, back to their nests in the rocks.

After you’ve had your fill of penguin watching, head back to Ackland Street for some dessert. The street is famous for gourmet cake shops and the window displays are always chock-full of fruit tarts, shortbread cookies, homemade chocolates and pretty much any other sweet you could be craving. I highly recommend the fruit flans, and Christine loved the blueberry slice .

Once you’ve stuffed yourself with treats keep walking down to Luna Park. This old school amusement park is famous for its big mouth entrance. Take your obligatory photo shoot out front and then head inside (entrance is free) to check out all the retro rides. If your inner child is calling, hop on a coaster for the full Luna Park experience.

Post-Post Dinner

If you’re still in the mood for some late night activities then you don’t need to go far. From the pubs and bars of Acland Street you can take a walk up the Esplanade and into Fitzroy Street. If live music is your scene drop by The Espy and see what live gigs are on. You’ll be sure to find a number of different bands playing all types of music across the multiple rooms, from rock to reggae to rap.

If you’re into DJ sets and house music then Fitzroy Street has a bunch of lounge bars that conveniently double up as raging night life, depending on the night. You’re always a safe bet in Cushion Lounge, Robarta or the Prince Bandroom where you’ll find a mixture of musical talents.

Further up the street, on the corner of Canterbury Rd and Fitzroy Street, there’s another couple of funky little spots at Metropol and Secret Garden.

Whether you’re looking for a quiet iced coffee after a day on the beach or a big night out for drinks, St. Kilda offers a spot for everyone!

Spent a day of activities in St Kilda and now looking to explore Melbourne? Check out our Flat Broke Guide to Melbourne, for the cheapest and best activities around town!

The Best Cuba Travel Itinerary: Part 2

Updated January 2017 after our second four week trip to Cuba and sending writers to Cuba in late 2016. All information is based on our own personal travel experiences and investigations to provide you with the most up-to-date Cuba information.

Missed Part 1? Check out the best Cuba Travel Itinerary for One or Two Weeks.

So after reading the first part maybe you’re starting to think that two weeks isn’t enough time for your Cuba travel itinerary. Hey, if you’re traveling to Cuba, you might as well make the most of it right?!

Luckily for you we’ve put together a bit of an extension for those with a little more time and a few extra places on their list. In the last article we mentioned what to do in Havana, Viñales, Varadero, Matanzas and Trinidad (we really recommend reading the first part). So now let’s delve deeper into Cuba, as we show you how to spend that extra time in Cuba and see all the most authentic spots!

Three Weeks in Cuba

Now you’re talking! This is starting to become a pretty solid amount of time in Cuba. Aside from the locations already mentioned you can now take your time and travel a little slower, stopping at smaller cities along the way to get a different perspective on the country. On your way down to Trinidad be sure to stop by Santa Clara, the final resting place of iconic, and somewhat controversial, revolutionary hero Che Guevara.

Apart from a huge tomb erected to commemorate Che you can also check out some famous battle locations from the Cuban Revolution. There’s a train line, as well as old museum, that runs past the edge of town that is famous for being Che’s most notorious victory against Batista. You can see the real remnants of the battle, along with some information about what went down. If you’re a fan of Cuban Revolution history its a fairly important battle location and interesting to check out.

While cruising the streets of Santa Clara be on the lookout for delicious bootleg yoghurt being sold from resident vendors. They sell it in any form of bottle they have laying around, but don’t let that put you off. It’s some of the best Cuban streets snacks we found in our travels. It’s a perfect mid-afternoon treat when the sun is beating down, your tired and just want something cold and sweet.

In Santa Clara you can also take check out a Cuban cigar factory tour for a really interesting insight to Cuban work life. The tours are ran by one of the employees of the cigar factory and you get to see the real pros at work, as they bunch, fold and cut one of Cuba’s finest export.

Unfortunately there’s no photography allowed inside, but it’s a worthwhile experience to witness the workforce. And while it may feel a little like a sweatshop in there, cigar makers are among some of the best paid jobs in all of Cuba: especially if they’re good.

On route to Trinidad, after leaving Santa Clara, be sure to drop by Cienfuegos for something different. Kind of like Matanzas (close to Havana), there aren’t a whole lot of attractions compared to neighboring cities, but it’s nice to visit a smaller city and experience true Cuban life.

You can take a public bus down to the water front (Cuban transportation is so cheap and easy to use), where a beautiful park overlooks the ocean. Or if you want to get even closer to the ocean there’s a ferry that can take you around the bay.

In Cienfuegos there’s also the opportunity to visit the nearby beach Playa Girón, located in the Bahia de Cochinos (Bay of Pigs), which is famous for being one of the locations in which CIA backed troops tried to dismantle the Cuban Revolution. Stories of the battle are widespread in Cuba, and the victory is constantly used in propaganda to reminder the people of Communist resistance to the ‘evil’ Capitalist world.

At this stage you might also be thinking about heading further east to Cuba’s second largest city Santiago de Cuba, a city famous for it’s Afro-Cuban Santeria culture, among many other interesting historical attractions. It’s another vibrant city that’s full of life and traditional Cuban culture, but with a little more Afro-Cuban flare!

Santiago de Cuba, because of its long distance to the capital, has also been a traditional place for revolutionary forces to commence their march towards liberation. The Cuban War of Independence from the Spanish and the Cuban Revolution both started out east and there is plenty of interesting history of battles around Santiago de Cuba as a result. Revolutionary names like Marti, Gomez, Maceo, Guevera, Cienfuegoes and Castro still ring through the streets and reminders can be found all over the city.

In Santiago de Cuba a lot of the action is centered around the main plaza at Parque Cespedes. There’s a gorgeous old church that you can visit and walk up to the top towers for a unbelievable view of the city below. Around the plaza you’ll find more classic Cuban nightlife, salsa clubs, live music and other historical sites.

Just outside the main city center you can also visit the Cementerio Santa Ifigenia, a cemetery containing many famous and historic graves of iconic Cuban figures. Pay tribute to music legend Compay Segundo, have a shot of rum with Mr. Barcardi himself, or give a salute to revolutionary heroes Martí and Cespedes. And don’t miss the ‘changing of the guard’ for Jose Martí that takes place every 30mins, all day, everyday! It’s a fitting tribute to such a beloved Cuban figure.

Another great attraction is the Castillo de Morro, about 30mins out of town. It’s a huge old fort that sits on the entrance to the Bay of Santiago de Cuba. It’s definitely worth a visit if you love old forts, and the views are amazing!

Making the trip down is a fair old hike from Havana, especially if you’re going by road. It’s a 15 hour bus trip with Viazul for $51, which basically kills a whole day because the bus leaves Havana at 9:30am. Check the schedules on their website to see if any additional buses are available now that tourism routes are getting busier.

There’s also a train that takes you all the way through Cuba. It’s one hell of an experience, but traveling by train in Cuba is definitely an authentic experience worth trying out at least once. If you can afford it, taking a flight will cost you around $130USD (check out the best way to find Cuba flights) for just over an hour flight one-way and it’ll really help you maximize your time.

One Month in Cuba (And More)

Recommended for the die-hard Cuba fans and people really wanting to get away from the usual tourist locations and into the smaller countryside spots. Also, if you’re interested in taking a course in salsa dancing or Spanish language this is a great amount of time.

If you can already speak Spanish you’ll get a lot more out of this experience, because it will give you time to stop in places for a while and make connections with the people. You’ll be able to talk to them, learn about history and hear their thoughts on the future of Cuba.

All the above locations are on offer, and you can stay as long or as little as you want. Move slowly through each place, challenging yourself to only take local transport or hitch along the way. Or, if you’ve got the money, rent a car and take yourself on the journey. If you can manage the crazy driving you’ll be fine!

On your way down to Santiago de Cuba stop along the way in Camaguey, Bayamo and Holguin to break up the trip and add to your Cuba travel itinerary.

Camaguey is provincial town about half way between Havana and Santiago de Cuba, so it’s good to break up the long journey. The town has some gorgeous colonial architecture, impressive churches and amazingly windy streets to go exploring through. The street plan (with twists, turns and dead-ends) for the town was designed to confuse marauding pirates, which has also succeed on unsuspecting tourists. But getting lost in Camaguey is a fun activity!

Bayamo is another cute provincial town that doesn’t get as much tourism and the rest of the east. There’s a main central plaza (also named Parque Cespedes) that gets most of the action. A pedestrian only walking street passes through town and shows you authentic Cuban life. Bayamo is also a great jumping off point if you’re planning on a trip to the Sierra Maestra mountain range to explore the beautiful views and hiking. It’s also famous for being the hideout of Fidel Castro, Che Guevara and the others at the beginning of the Cuban Revolution.

All along the way be sure to stay with local families in casa particulares. Not only is it cheaper, but it’ll give you an amazing insight into a Cuban family household. It’s a great way to get insider tips, learn about where you’re going next and see the real authentic Cuba!