Friday Faces: Josefina from Nebaj Guatemala

Nebaj, Guatemala photos

     Being a photographer in a foreign country can be a blessing and a curse. We are constantly surrounded by incredible colors, intriguing lifestyles and exotic people. It’s hard not to run up to locals and start snapping away. Fortunately, courtesy keeps us from shoving a camera in somebody’s face before asking first. Oftentimes we give up the opportunity of an amazing photo for fear of being rejected or making the local feel awkward. And other times, very rarely, a beautiful portrait falls in our laps. This was one of those times.

We were walking through the gorgeous rolling hills of Nebaj, Guatemala when we passed a yard of giggling girls. We waved and just after we passed, one of the girls ran out screaming “photo!” We looked at each other and raced to wrestle our cameras out of our bags. The rest of the group was shy, hiding at the sight of our cameras, but Josefina confidently placed her hands on her hips to pose. With a beautiful toothy smile, she proceeded to pose like a model in her very own photo shoot. The large indigenous population of this area of Guatemala, the Ixil Triangle, has had a rocky history. The local Mayan communities tend to be, understandably, a bit more closed to tourists and weary of photographers. We felt very lucky for this opportunity to photograph such a sweet local girl in her traditional and colorful clothing.

How To Stay Healthy While Traveling

I’m writing this to you from under a mountain of tissues. As a current cold-battler, I may not be the most trusted health guru to give tips on how to stay healthy while traveling, but the least I can do is be a cautionary tale. I’m retracing my steps to see just where I went wrong this time and how I can tweak my travel style just a bit to keep from getting sick so often. Because there’s nothing worse than being stuck in a cramped dorm room, quarantined off into a corner by your roommates, wishing you were in bed at home while your mates are off exploring a new city.

 

Take a Day Off

Traveling is freaking exhausting. Sometimes I forget how taxing it is, mentally and physically. There’s so much to see and you feel guilty for not maxing out your time to squeeze it all in. Then your off days are spent hopping from bus to bus traveling across entire countries. Take a day off! Sleep in, watch movies, spend the whole day reading. Taking a day off every once in a while will prevent you from having to spend a whole week curled up in the fetal position, popping Paracetamol.

 

 

Eat Healthy

Eating healthy can be difficult on the road. Often fast food pizza is cheaper and quicker than buying veggies and cooking up a healthy meal. Instant noodles and boxed Mac n Cheese are easy, delicious and serious comfort food. It’s also terrible for you, especially on a regular basis. You wouldn’t go days without some kind of fruit and veg at home would you? Wait, don’t answer that. Backpacking already puts your body through the wringer. The best way to prevent getting sick? Don’t eat shit.

 

 

Turn Down the Party

You know you’re getting sick. You can feel that first symptom scratch in the back of your throat, but you choose to ignore it because tomorrow the group you’ve been traveling with for weeks break off to different destinations. You can’t possibly poop out on the party. So one beer turns to three, which turns into rum and cokes and then you end up taking body shots off some local named Luis. Now, the next day instead of just battling an epic hangover, you’re stuck with the flu and will be out of commission for a week. Trust me, when you’re backpacking, there is always a party to be found. Missing one night won’t kill you. But pushing yourself when you’re getting sick will screw you over.

 

 

Take Your Vitamins

Even if you try to eat as healthy as possible, it’s still difficult to get all the nutrients you need while on the road. Unlike grocery stores in the Western World, markets in developing countries are subject to seasonal fruits and veggies. If you’re not getting all your nutrients in (and lets face it, who is?), packing a supply of multivitamins can be helpful. Vitamin C and E are particularly helpful for boosting your immune system and the B complex vitamins are great for a kick of energy. Also, eating raw garlic and ginger are basically like giving your body a 1 up, Mario style.

 

Wash those Dirty Hands

Okay, so you’re not five. You know to wash your hands after the bathroom, before you eat, etc. But this should go ten-fold while traveling. Hostels in particular are breeding grounds for germs. With so many people coming in and out everyday, sickness spreads easily. When you’re traveling, you’re also entering a lot more public places than you would at home. The turnstile on that bus? Filthy. The handrail on the elevator up to the Eiffel Tower? Disgusting. Wash your hands often and invest in a bottle of anti-bacterial gel. You may look like a paranoid germaphobe, but seriously, your insides will thank you.

Got any other helpful travel tips for staying healthy on the road? Help me from getting sick all the time! Leave a comment below or find us on Facebook and Twitter!

Our Week In Review: Hopkins & Caye Caulker Photos

 

This week has been jam packed. Now that we have less than 2 months left on our trip, we’ve started to feel the pressure to squeeze everything in. Long gone are the days of leisurely crashing somewhere for a couple weeks, exploring new places slowly and deeply. We’re still not traveling as fast as some backpackers though, sticking with a minimum of 2 or 3 nights in new places. We’ve enjoyed moving quicker; its never dull and there is really a rush that you get from running around, exhausted but wired, not sure what day it is, or even what country you’re in for that matter. But it is tiring.

I think this week we’re really starting to feel the strain of traveling for such an extended period of time. Most of our electronics have gone on permanent strike (ie. broke) Our feet are sore and all of our clothes have some sort of hole or stain in them. We’re on the home stretch and we’re balancing our excitement to go home with savoring every moment we have left on the road. This week we visited the small beach town of Hopkins, the reef island Caye Caulker and yesterday we crossed the border back into Mexico. After jumping around Central America for the past 5 months, heading back to Mexico feels like coming home. This is where we started our trip, the country we spent the most time in and a personal favorite of both of ours. Stepping across the border today, we were both invigorated with the anticipation of tacos, cheap beer and a few weeks on the Yucatan. Lets do it!

 

We met a man who has taken in dozens of cats and dogs abandoned on the island. It was beautiful to see someone who cares so much about the local animals. If you’re interested in adopting or donating follow their Facebook page; The Caye Caulker Animal Shelter

 

 

 

Have you check out any of these spots? How did they compare to our snaps? Drop us a comment below or find us on Facebook and Twitter!

How to Chow Down at the Juayua Food Festival

Juayua Food Festival

Tucked away in the Northern highlands of El Salvador, along the Ruta de Flores, is the small town of Juayua. This sleepy town comes alive every weekend with their famous Juayua food festival. The normally quiet plaza bursts into action with stalls lining the street, each cooking up different delicacies for tourists and locals. Stepping into this madness can be overwhelming, but don’t worry, we’ve got you covered.

Sample it up

A couple of stalls will be giving out free samples. Take advantage! If you’re unsure, go back for seconds. Let the cooks woo you with their savory treats. Let them fight over you. It’s all part of the fun.

Don’t fill up on maiz

Latin America loves corn. They have about 10 million different foods based on an infinite combination of ingredients, but all with the same base staple: corn meal. Cooks will be grilling and frying up these corn treats in all shapes and sizes. Politely decline. The fried goodness may be delicious, but it’ll fill you up instantly, leaving you regretting that you didn’t get to the good stuff earlier.

Get the biggest bang for your buck

Just because you’re in El Salvador doesn’t mean things will be cheap. At the festival, a cup full of shrimp cocktail will cost about $5. That may not sound like much, but when you can get a heaping plate of beef, potatoes and salad for the same price, it’s not worth it. The combination plates are where it’s at. These dishes can have up to 4 different animals on them at once. This is really where you’ll get the most for your dollar and be able to sample a few different foods. Just be sure to….

Know what you’re getting

Don’t be shy. Ask what is on your plate! You may think you’ve just ordered a big helping of fresh fish only to discover a greasy unidentifiable mystery meatball hiding underneath. Ask for a full explanation of your plate before you start digging in. Especially if you have any food allergies or preferences.

Don’t miss the entertainment

After you’ve stuffed your belly full of deliciousness, roll yourself over to the main plaza. If you’re lucky, local celebrity Manuel Jose will be wooing the crowd with his vocal abilities. What better cultural experience that watching a middle-aged El Salvadorian man sing and dance to Gangnam style?

Invest in the dulces

If you have any room left in that belly, be sure to take advantage of the dessert section. These sweet treats may be on the pricey side, but trust me, they’re worth it. Snatch up the tiramisu before it sells out.

Happy feasting!

Beaches of El Salvador: El Tunco Vs. El Cuco

The Beaches of El Salvador Showdown

El Tunco vs El Cuco

Chances are, unless you’re a surfer, you haven’t heard much about the beaches of El Salvador. Mexico, yes, Nicaragua, sure, but El Salvador? As it turns out, the coast of this little country has more than a bit to offer. As a non-surfer and surf nut traveling together, we were looking for the perfect beach town that had the best of both worlds. Here’s our take on El Tunco vs El Cuco.

The Beach

El Tunco

The beach in El Tunco isn’t that much to look at. Besides a couple of picturesque sunsets and a photogenic rock formation jutting out of the water, it’s not a very pretty beach. The black sand and thick layer of rocks that cover the shore don’t exactly make for good lounging or swimming conditions.

El Cuco

The beach at El Cuco turned out to be one of our favorite beaches of Central America. It’s vast shore leaves plenty of room for sun soaking or playing football. The waves are calm and perfect for swimming. We were there for one of the biggest holidays in El Salvador, and the beach was still serenely quiet and empty.

El Tunco beach

The Surf

El Tunco

The La Libertad area, including El Tunco, is famous for its surf. Surf shops clutter the small town and board rentals are available for $10/ day. For beginners, there are small waves and plenty of local surf instructors available for lessons. For the more experienced, Sunzal offers a consistent right break and nearby La Bocana has a more challenging left.

El Cuco

If you’re looking for surf, Las Flores is the place to be. There are smaller waves for beginners and a consistent flow of right-handers to keep surf veterans happy for days, and if the conditions are good you can probably sneak into a decent barrel.

Accommodation

El Tunco

This town is packed with hostels, so you won’t have trouble finding a place to sleep. Hostels range in price (about $6-$10 for a dorm bed) and in quality (dingy to luxury). If you’re looking for a party hostel, there’s plenty with bars and many with pools perfect for day drinking, but if you’re looking for a quieter night, best to head a block or two off the main road.

El Cuco

The beach from Las Flores down to the end of Esteron is dotted with sun worn surf hotels and resorts. Proper hostels are hard to come but there are a few budget options along the way. We stayed at La Tortuga Verde. More of a laid back resort than a hostel, but with dorm beds at $10/ night, it’s a gorgeous property right on the beach. The only downside is the hostel has no open kitchen and the restaurant is expensive for a backpacker budget.

El Cuco beach

Food

El Tunco

The restaurants here can be fairly pricey, especially further down by the water. If you’re on a budget, don’t even bother looking at the menus of the spots on the beach. There are a couple cheaper taco/ burrito spots that you can’t miss. If you plan on cooking, bring groceries in from La Libertad, because the few shops in town have a small (expensive) selection. There are two ATMs in the center of El Tunco if you need to get money out.

El Cuco

Most hotel and surf lodges will have a private restaurant, but it’s a pricey option. If your accommodation does have a kitchen, it’s best to buy groceries in San Miguel, because the stores in El Cuco are limited. Hit up an ATM in San Miguel before you come down as well. There are no ATMs in El Cuco and you’ll have to head back to Chirilagua to take out money. In the center, cheap comedors and pupuserias are available, but enduring the long, scorching walk into town isn’t fun.

El Tunco beach

Drink

El Tunco

If you’re looking for a beach spot to let loose with other travelers, El Tunco is it. The dense concentration of backpackers means a party any day of the week. Most restaurants serve beer buckets and the bars along the beach play live music or have DJ’s most nights.

El Cuco

These beaches are the perfect spot to sleep off your El Tunco hangover. Most hotels are pretty quiet at night. There are a couple spots in town to grab a beer, but the center can get a bit seedy after dark.

So there you have it, both fun little surf towns, each with their own draws. If you find yourself down at the beaches of El Salvador, let us know which you prefer! Here’s a few more pictures to help convince you!

What do you think of the beaches of El Salvador? Which is your favorite? Drop us a comment below or find us on Facebook and Twitter!

El Cuco beach

Budget for San Cristobal de las Casas, Mexico

Total Budget for San Cristobal de las Casas – $350 a month

The number one question we get from people when they hear we have been backpacking for over a year is, “how do you not run out of money?!” Or something to that affect. We usually respond with a vague answer about saving up in our respective countries and traveling cheap, but I think people always wonder if we have some sort of secret pyramid scheme or drug smuggling business we’re getting rich off of. So for transparency’s sake, I thought we’d write out our one month budget for San Cristobal de Las Casas, Mexico.

San Cristobal de las Casas in the hills of Chiapas, Southern Mexico. It’s safe and in the dry season (November to May) the weather is perfect. Charming cobblestone streets lead to Real Guadalupe, a pedestrian only street lined with cafes, bars and restaurants. The town draws a lot of artists and musicians, so on any given night you can watch an art expo and then listen to quality live music in the street. It’s a fantastic place for a new expat or first time traveler to settle down for a few weeks.

After finding a local women’s cooperative to volunteer with, we ended up living here for 2 months. For a grand total of 350 dollars a month each. Yes, that’s right, $87.50 a week. Lets see how we did it.

 

Rental Cost for San Cristobal: 2000P/ $150 shared, $75 each

Our home for the 2 months was a private room in a shared apartment. The location was perfect, just a couple blocks off Real Guadalupe. The room itself was spacious and (simply) furnished, which was a big selling point for us. Kitchen, hot water and wifi were all included. Other travelers, students and expats would rotate in and out every few weeks, which always kept things interesting. It wasn’t luxurious living by any means, but after a couple of weeks it became home. Cheaper options are definitely available, but for the location it was reasonably priced.

 

 

Cooking Costs in Mexico: $130 each

So we’ve discovered that one of the biggest ways to cut back on traveling expenses is to cook for yourself. It can be time consuming and annoying but trust me, if you’re traveling long-term, eating at restaurants will eat up your budget. Just because we cooked for ourselves, doesn’t mean we ate like peasants. Because we had a bit of time on our hands, and access to fresh ingredients, we were able to make homemade pizza, slow cooked pasta sauce and handmade pesto.  The market in San Cristobal is manageable and has anything you’ll need. Buy where the locals buy is always our motto. We did a big market shop about once a week and found fresh fruit, veggies and spices for low prices. To reward ourselves for staying in and cooking, we occasionally splurged on more expensive groceries like quality cheese and natural yogurt.

 

Cost for Eating Out in San Cristobal: $30 each

Okay, so sometimes you just need to say f*&k it and eat at a restaurant. Whether you’re tired, hungover, or just need a break, eating out can be a affordable way to treat yourself. We ate out on average about once a week and went to mid-range places.

 

 

Going Out for Drinks: $40 each

Long gone are our days of getting wasted every night. If you’re on a month long trip, you can swing it, but if you’re traveling long term it’s just not sustainable. Not only is it a drain on the wallet, waking up hung-over every other day is a real trip-killer. So aside from the occasional happy hour or after dinner nightcap, we saved our drinking money for special party nights. There are some good drink specials around town, but nothing beats sharing a Cajuama (liter size beer) from the grocery store amongst friends. Also if you run into Rum Fandango, a bottle costs 42 pesos ($3.50). Mix that with a little Coke and you’re set for the evening.

 

Day and Weekend Trips from San Cristobal: $50 each

Chiapas is said to be the most beautiful region in Mexico. San Cristobal is the perfect jumping off point for short trips around the area. The quiet town of Chomula and the waterfalls at Chiflon are easy day trips from San Cris. A bit further out there are the Mayan ruins in Palenque and the breathtaking lakes at Lagos de Montebello which make for fun weekend getaways. We used public transportation to get to all of these locations, but there are tour agencies that can help you organize transportation.

 

Transportation Costs: $5 each

The center of San Cristobal is fairly small and you can easily walk wherever  you need to go. Taxis can take you out of the center to, for example, the fairgrounds, but can be pricey. Cheap collectivos are also available for short trips around San Cristobal or to the surrounding towns. Most leave from the market area and cost about 6 pesos (50c).

Getting to San Cristobal de las Casas is also easy from anywhere in Mexico, as long as your ok with taking a long bus ride. Otherwise you can fly in, but where’s the fun in that!

 

Miscellaneous- $20 each

This is the category I’m putting all our random everyday life purchases in. Toiletries, the occasional water bottle (although most of our water is free, using our life saving Steripen) and the very occasional souvenir, although we’re not big souvenir people. (We did, however, enjoying getting to know a small group of young street seller of San Cristobal who gave us some really interesting stories about their life and culture).

 

 

So there you have it, a one month budget for San Cristobal de las Casas, Mexico. You don’t need to save thousands of dollars to spend a month or two enjoying a foreign country. If you keep an eye on your budget, you’ll be able to travel for a lot longer than if you blow all your money on expensive restaurants and alcohol. Traveling slowly and cooking the majority of your meals significantly helps keep down costs. So what are you waiting for? San Cristobal is the perfect place to start your overseas adventure!

 

 

 

Birthdays Abroad: Turning 26 in Nicaragua

 

Growing up I had always envied my friends with mid-year birthdays, being able to tie balloons to your backpack and bring in cupcakes for the class. But on the flip-side, having a mid-August birthday meant I was lucky enough to celebrate wherever my family was vacationing that summer.

 A couple younger birthdays were spent on the island of Kauai. Exhausting days spent waterskiing, swimming and finishing the evening with the “Mustang Sally” sundae at the corner ice cream store.

My 17th was one of the most memorable, celebrating with my family in Morocco. The waiters of the hotel had constructed a type of Mediterranean cake and did their best version of Happy Birthday.

I don’t say these things to brag. Only to reflect that after years of celebrating getting older abroad, I should be used to it. In fact, spending birthdays abroad are kind of a metaphor for my life at the moment. Birthdays in another country are undoubtedly exciting and usually full of adventure. But what does it really mean to turn another year old if you can’t celebrate with the people who know you? Who’ve seen you grow up, evolve and mature?




I say that this is a metaphor for my life right now because as I continue to travel, I’m learning that I can’t have my birthday cake and eat it too. Traveling long-term and spending quality time with my friends and family are, unfortunately, contradictory. This year, for example, my birthday was action packed. Jules surprised me by taking us to a salsa class, then we went on a factory tour of my favorite rum and capped off the day by getting drunk with our hostel mates and dancing the night away. It was possibly the perfect travel birthday. Culture, dancing and lots of Nicaraguan rum. Still, there is a part of me that misses the tradition of my family signing Happy Birthday off-key. And as much as my new hostel friends cheers’d me with cold Toñas, I know my home friends would have cheers’d even louder.

Travel is by far my biggest passion in life and I love it inside and out. Even if it leaves me broke, lost and full of parasites, I still love it. I wouldn’t trade my life in for anything and I acknowledge everyday how lucky I am. But it’s not without its sacrifice. Where some people sit in their 9-5 cubicle daydreaming of exotic islands, I sit on the beach and daydream about having a normal life. Okay, maybe not while I’m on the beach.

But I do daydream at times of having a normal job, the same bed to sleep in every night, being able to count on a hot shower, having a refrigerator full of fresh (parasite free!) fruits and vegetables and hummus and Greek yogurt and OMG now I’m drooling.

I daydream of being able to do normal things like meet up for happy hour, bitch about normal things like bosses instead of things like bed bugs, make weekend plans with friends, having friends that stick around for longer than 2 days! These things may sound trivial to everyone at home, but these mundane, everyday life things are what I miss most. That, and being able to surround yourself with people who know you. Truly know you! Who know not to be offended by your ill-timed inappropriate laughter, when to offer a hug and when to leave you alone.




Lucky for me, I get to travel with my best friend and love of my life rolled into one. He is my rock and without him I would never be able to travel this long without going insane. But I do miss being able to say those things you can only say to your best girlfriends. I miss the unconditional love I receive from my family. And I miss my friends.

There is a part of me that feels a sharp shooting pain when I see Facebook photos of all my friends getting together or status updates about the latest music festival. I may have even shed a tear after looking at everyone’s Coachella albums earlier this year. Should I be complaining about missing a music festival when I’m living on the Oaxacan coast of Mexico? No. Does it still suck? Yes.

I wish I could fly home for each of my birthdays, or better yet, fly all the important people in my life here, but its not possible. Right now in my life I’m choosing to explore the world over spending time with my friends and family back home. It’s not an easy decision, but it’s made a thousand times easier by knowing that whenever I do come back home, even if I am gone for a year, I will still be welcomed with the same warmth as if I never left.

 

Flat Broke in: Xela

Every backpacker knows what it’s like to be on a tight budget. Choosing public transportation over cushy first class, forgoing meals out for cooking beans in a dingy hostel kitchen, its all part of the fun, right? But being on a budget doesn’t mean you have to miss out on awesome activities. Jules and I are always on the look out for cheap or, even better, free things to do. Here’s some activities that won’t break the bank in Xela, Guatemala.

1) Xela Cemetary:

This activity is completely 100% free. Oh yeah! The cemetery is located not far from the center plaza and is a true mosaic of bright colors. Gravestones are painted in turquoise, orange and pastel pinks. Although the cemetery is open weeklong, the best day to go is Sunday when families gather to pay respect to their deceased relatives. It doesn’t take long to witness the stark contrast between the western view of death and how they celebrate it in Guatemala. Families bring picnics, including the deceased’s favorite foods, to enjoy for lunch. The ice cream man pushes his cart as children run over graves to catch him. The whole afternoon is spent kicking back, sharing food and chatting with the family.

2) San Francisco de Alto Market:

If you’re looking for handicrafts to take home as souvenirs, this is not the place. The San Francisco Market is, however, an amazing place to get a glimpse of how the locals shop. This market is not geared for tourists and likely you’ll be the only foreigner in sight. Compared to shopping at Chichicastenango, it’s refreshing to watch locals buying and selling their weekly items without trying to pressure you into a sale.  It’s the largest weekly market in all of Guatemala and carries everything from clothing to live animals. Yeah that’s right. If you do want to see the livestock section, be sure to get there early because the animals are packed up by 11am. If you’re up for an adventure, the market opens by candlelight around 4 am. San Francisco El Alto is only open on Fridays and sits high on top of a mountain. The winding chicken bus up to the market is 10Q and takes about an hour to get there. Be sure to bring a camera to capture the action of the market and the gorgeous views from the top.

 3) Zunil

This small town is the take-off point for transportation to hot springs, Fuentes Georginas. Although we’ve heard they’re beautiful, we couldn’t justify spending 100Q just for a soak. So we opted for the cheaper option to explore the small town of Zunil. The bus (only 4.75Q from Xela) drops you off at the church. From there, you have to ask around to find the location of the town’s main attraction- San Simon. Zunil is one of the few places that still worships this Saint. Also known as Maximon, San Simon is the saint of gambling and drinking and is said to bring wealth and success to those who worship him. The shrine is moved to a new house each year, so ask around in town for the location. We were sent on a wild goose chase up narrow winding streets until we finally asked someone who pointed to a dark house behind us. Entering the building we found only a sleepy guard who silently pointed upstairs. Cautiously, we made our way upstairs to find San Simon himself, in all his glory. The shrine is centered around a life-size mannequin, who sits coolly with a cigarette hanging out of his mouth and a black hat and sunglasses covering his face. Dozens of candles line the floor, dimly lighting the small room. Offerings of bottles of alcohol and packs of cigarettes sit on a table next to Simon. A woman sitting in the corner rushes up to the mannequin intermittently to shake the ashes off the butt of his cigarette or light a new one. Entrance is only 5Q, but you’ll have to pay another 10Q to take photos.

 

5 Overrated Travel Books to Leave at Home

1) Eat, Pray, Love.

Now, don’t get me wrong. This is a great chic-lit book to kick back by the pool with. Easy to get through and a quick read. Her book is all about trying to find herself after a painful divorce by becoming immersed in the cultures of Italy, India and Indonesia. Unfortunately, her introspective narrative borders self-absorbed. She is praised for her courage in leaving her life behind to explore new territory. But should we really be applauding this upper-class white lady for taking a cushy vacation with a book deal in tow? She desperately tries to find herself through travel, but instead of allowing each country to change her through personal experience, she tries to impose her already established idea of who she wants to become and how she wants to get there. The sub characters in her book read like stereotypes and end up revolving solely around her, forced into her preconceived notions of how each country will influence her as a person. If I wanted to read self-centered gushing about foreign men, I’d dig out my first travel journal.

2) Marching Powder

So for the interest of full disclosure, I will admit that I never actually finished this book. Even with its fast pace and shocking details of life in San Pedro, a Bolivian prison, it did not hold my attention all the way through. The book recounts the true story of Thomas McFadden, a young British man caught smuggling cocaine out of Bolivia. He gets locked up for 5 years and slowly works his way up the pecking order of the prison to the point where he gives prison tours to thrill-seeking backpackers. The book describes Thomas as charming and charismatic, but it just didn’t come across that way. He develops a “poor me, I got caught smuggling X amount of cocaine because I was ratted out by my accomplice and now I have to go to prison” attitude. Sorry, I can’t really sympathize. He complains about the unfair conditions of the prison, even when he is allowed outside visitors, a girlfriend comes to live in his cell with him and he gets to have day trips to eat, drink and party in the outside world. And he “admits” to readers that his first experience trying cocaine is inside the jail. As if a large scale drug smuggler would never have tried his product before. Yeah right. Which only makes it more difficult to believe his outlandish tales. In South America I saw a copy of this floating around almost every hostel, so when I spotted it in a book exchange, I thought I had snagged some hot property. I totally get the appeal of the true story of seedy Latin American corruption. I just don’t need it told to me by a twat who thinks he should be above the system.

3) On the Road

I wanted to love this. I wanted to carry this from country to country like my own personal travel bible. I wanted to relate to Kerouac’s free spirit and unsettled roots. I wanted the spontaneity of their destinationless road trips to inspire me to sell everything and drive across America. But it didn’t. And I’m not ashamed to say that this book sucks. The narrator thinks he’s on some important journey, “sympathizing” with the American working class because he chooses to live like a bum, all the while idealizing his best friend who is really just a mooch and womanizer. You either love this book or you hate it. If you must read it, it’s best left for a sleepless night fueled by coffee and cigarettes, consuming it all in one go. Picking up and putting down this book while traveling just gets confusing. And as cool as you think you look with a beat up copy of On the Road under your arm, you just look like a tool.

4) Life of Pi

“This book will make you believe in God” reads the prologue of Life of Pi.
Whoa, Yann Martel, big effing claim. Well, needless, to say it didn’t. This book is like a really long session on the Stairmaster. It’s feels like a century, but when it’s over you feel proud and can convince yourself it was worth it. The beginning of the book was gorgeous and kept me intrigued, but the middle, despite focusing on a talking Bengali tiger, dragged on and on. Even though this is a popular backpacking book, it’s not really a travel-inspiring story. It’s more of a gruesome survival tale with a twist ending. The book deals with the themes of truth and faith, a bit heavy for a travel book. In the end the author subtly presents the reader with 2 options: believe in God and live in a fantastical world full of excitement and adventure, or don’t believe and live in a boring reality of misery. As an agnostic, I felt a bit cheated.

5) Your guide book

Yep, that’s right. It’s not that they aren’t a wealth of information, but in this day and age everything you could ever want to know about a place is online. Besides, every restaurant/hostel/bar that has been published in the Lonely Planet has become half as good and twice as expensive from it. Okay, maybe that was a big generalization, but still, keep your $25, ditch the weight and check out the online resources of Matador Network, Rough Guides and of course, Don’t Forget to Move.

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